My Atmosphere

Portugal has a reputation as the forgotten European country, largely ignored by the hordes of Euro-backpackers who swarm through the continent every summer. So while you’d be hard-pressed to find a veteran European traveler who hasn?t experienced the splendor of the French riviera or Spain’s Costa del Sol, mention Portugal’s Algarve and you’re likely to draw blank stares from most Americans. Though it’s long been popular with British tourists, this sun-blessed strip of Atlantic coast nonetheless qualifies as on of Western Europe’s best-kept secrets. And though the Algarve contains as many condos, golf courses, and chic resorts as its Mediterranean cousins, it is also home to some of the best beach-side deals in all of Europe.

Piazza San Marco collects Venice’s most spectacular sights, its biggest ripoffs, and enough pigeons to disqualify them from a spot on the endangered species list. A cappuccino or a beer at one of the square’s cafes costs more than ten dollars. The orchestra in the background playing a Beatles medley really isn’t worth it even if the oboe player is taking John’s parts. St. Mark’s Cathedral and the Doge’s Palace, both in Piazza San Marco, are not to be missed. During daylight hours, though, the square is packed with tourists off package tour buses in town for the day and of course the locust-like swarm of pigeons (considered, like all birds, to be doves if they happen to be in Piazza San Marco). The best bet after careful study of the prime attractions,the bronze horses they stole from Constaninople and the home of the Doge, is to get out of San Marco either on foot or by water to Venice’s peripheral sights.

The tourist traffic between San Marco and the Rialto Bridge has become so intense that organizations trying to keep the city from sinking have made the creation of detours a priority. To travel the Grand Canal, the public vaporetto is far less romantic but also much less expensive (70 cents vs. $70) than the famous Venetian gondola. On foot, winding through Venice’s labyrinthine streets yields more hidden churches and abandoned palazzos. Venice’s nightlife is quieter than that of most tourist towns. The Paradiso Perduto offers a rowdy Mediterranean atmosphere replete with seafood and other salty delights. Harry’s Bar-Hemingway’s old hang out-still bursts at the seems with blazer-clad bellini-sipping ex-pats. For more, check out the guide: Restaurants in Venice. After the bus tours roll away, Venice is given over to lovers. At night you’ll gladly lose yourself on the streets and alleys that you navigated all the evil day.